onders.org_zola_theme/templates/navbar.html

{% if page.ancestors %}
{% set ancestor = get_section(path=page.ancestors | last) %}
{% endif %}

{% if current_path and current_path == "/" %}
{% else %}
<nav>
  <div class="row">
    <div class="column">
      <a href="{{ config.base_url }}">home</a>
    </div>
    {% if ancestor.extra %}
    <div class="column align-right">
      <a href="{{ ancestor.path }}">Reiseindex</a>
    </div>
    {% endif %}
  </div>
  <div class="row">
    {% if page.higher %}
    <div class="column">
      <a href="{{ page.higher.path }}">{{ page.higher.title }}</a>
    </div>
    {% endif %}
    {% if page.lower %}
    <div class="column align-right">
      <a href="{{ page.lower.path }}">{{ page.lower.title }}</a>
    </div>
    {% endif %}
  </div>
</nav>
{% endif %}